Ancient Curling Hair Techniques: Who Started The Trend? (2025)

The history of curling hair dates back centuries, with ancient civilisations such as the Egyptians, Babylonians, Assyrians, and Persians using hot metal curling tongs to style their hair and beards. The first known patent for a curling iron was given to Sir Hiram Maxim in 1866, but it is generally believed that Frenchman Marcel Grateau invented the first curling iron in 1890. Grateau also designed the iconic “Marcel Wave hairstyle, which offered long-lasting curls and became a symbol of the early 20th century. The first electric curling iron was patented in 1959 by Rene Lelievre and Roger Lamoine, making curling irons more accessible and affordable for the general public.

Curling hair dates back to ancient civilisations, including the Egyptians, who curled their beards, hair and wigs

In ancient Egypt, people used curling irons made of bronze, with some artefacts taking the form of a horse, with the hind legs stretched rearward blending into a band of papyrus sepals. Other ancient curling tools included short iron rods and darts, decorative bones, ivory and stone objects.

In ancient Greece, flat irons were used to straighten hair before curling. East Asian women of some cultures used iron darts to hold their hair in place and as a weapon.

The first ladies' hair salon was established in the 1600s, to the disapproval of church leaders. In 1872, the first successful salon for women was opened in Paris, France, by a man named Marcel Grateau. He is credited with inventing the curling iron in 1890, though the first patent for a curling iron was obtained by Hiram Maxim in 1866. Grateau's iconic style was known as the "Marcel Wave", a "style and beauty distinctively at variance with all other forms of hair-dressing".

In the 19th century, curling irons needed to be heated on a stove top, which often led to burned hair and scalps

The history of hair curling goes back centuries, with evidence of curling found in ancient Egyptian, Greek, Assyrian, Babylonian, and Persian cultures. In these ancient societies, people used hot metal curling tongs, made of iron or bronze and heated over a fire, to style their hair, beards, and wigs.

In the 19th century, the process of curling hair became somewhat more sophisticated, but still relied on heating metal curling irons on a stove top. These curling irons, or tongs, were heated on a rectangular gas burner with a gas flame. To test if the irons were too hot, stylists would touch paper to the heated metal. If the paper turned slightly brown, the irons were at the right temperature. However, due to the difficulty of controlling the heat, this method often resulted in burned hair and scalps.

The challenge of regulating temperature was not a new one. Even in ancient times, people experienced many burned beards as a result of the high heat. However, the desire for curls as a way to display wealth and status persisted.

In the 19th century, the curling irons themselves varied in barrel size, and the price of these irons ranged from $3.00 to $6.00. They were often sold in packs, reflecting the need to use multiple irons to achieve the desired hairstyle without the irons cooling down.

It wasn't until the late 1950s that the curling iron saw a significant upgrade, with the invention of the electric curling iron by Rene Lelievre and Roger Lamoine in 1959.

The first electric curling iron was patented in 1959 by Rene Lelievre and Roger Lamoine

The history of curling hair dates back centuries, with ancient civilisations such as the Egyptians, Babylonians, Assyrians, and Persians using hot metal curling tongs to style their hair and beards. These curling tongs were made of iron or bronze and heated over a fire, which often resulted in burned beards and hair due to the difficulty of controlling the temperature. Despite the risks, curls were a way for nobility to display their wealth and status.

In the mid-19th century, curling irons were heated on stovetops and sold in packs, as they would often cool down before one finished curling their hair. This method also frequently resulted in burned hair, scalps, and hands. It wasn't until the introduction of electricity that the need for multiple irons ceased.

The electric curling iron invented by Lelievre and Lamoine only had one barrel size, which meant that everyone had the same curls and hairstyles. This issue was addressed in 1965 when curling irons with different-sized barrels were introduced, allowing for custom looks and varied hairstyles. The 1960s also saw the rise in popularity of beehives and big bouffants, which were styled using curling irons to create volume.

Since the invention of the first electric curling iron, there have been numerous improvements and variations, such as the introduction of heat control settings and spring-closing clamps for easier hair curling. The materials used in curling irons have also evolved, with high-quality irons now made with advanced materials like ceramic, nano-silver, titanium, or tourmaline, which help spread heat evenly and minimise hair damage.

In the 1960s, curling irons were used to create volume, with beehives and bouffants in style

In the 1960s, big hair was back in fashion. The previous decade's plain wartime styles were out, and the bouffant was in. This lavishly teased style was given extra lift with rollers and backcombing, and held in place with heavy lacquer spray. The beehive was a more extreme version of the bouffant, with hair sculpted into a conical shape on top of the head. These styles were so popular that, by 1964, hair spray had become the USA's number one beauty aid.

To achieve these gravity-defying looks, women turned to curling irons. In 1959, French inventors Rene Lelievre and Roger Lamoine had created the first electric curling iron, which made curling irons accessible to those outside of the upper classes. However, this first iteration only had one barrel size, which meant everyone had the same curls and hairstyles. It wasn't until 1965 that curling irons with multiple barrel sizes were introduced, allowing for custom looks.

With the new variety of barrel sizes, curling irons became a key tool for creating volume, in addition to shaping curls. Women used them to achieve the popular beehive and bouffant styles, which required extensive preparation and a great number of tools. To set their hair in these styles, young girls would sleep in huge rollers, using a gel solution to hold the curls in place overnight. Those with extremely curly hair would use large frozen cans in place of rollers, and some women even wrapped toilet paper around their heads to preserve their sculpted dos.

The curling iron served as a symbol of transition in the TV series *Downton Abbey,* reflecting the changing roles of women due to World War I

The second season of the TV series *Downton Abbey* is set during World War I, from 1916 to 1919, reflecting the changing roles of women due to the war. The manor is turned into a temporary convalescent home for wounded soldiers, and the female characters of the show undergo significant transformations as a result of the war.

The use of the curling iron in the show serves as a symbol of transition, reflecting the changing traditions of women's roles in the early 20th century. In Season 2, Episode 3, Anna is seen curling Lady Mary's hair with an electric curling iron. The curling iron, a newly popular styling tool, represents the evolving fashion trends of the time. This scene also hints at the larger changes occurring due to the war, as Mary mentions Sir Richard Carlisle's profession and new-money lifestyle.

Later in the same episode, Anna uses the curling iron on her own hair in the bedroom she shares with fellow housemaid Ethel. This scene reflects changing cultural expectations, as Ethel discusses a potential romantic relationship with a convalescing soldier, Major Charles Bryant. The use of the curling iron in this scene underscores the impact of the war on women of different social classes, as it was typically a tool associated with upper-class women like Lady Mary.

The curling iron appears again in Season 4, Episode 4, when Cora asks Mrs. Patmore if there are any modern conveniences she would like. Mrs. Patmore responds that she would like to stop wearing a girdle, reflecting her desire for comfort and freedom in a changing world.

Through these scenes, the curling iron becomes a symbol of the transition and evolution of women's roles during World War I. It represents the embrace of new technologies and changing traditions, particularly in the realm of fashion and beauty. The use of the curling iron also highlights the blurring of social boundaries, as characters from different classes find common ground in their desire for modern conveniences and personal expression.

Overall, the curling iron in *Downton Abbey* serves as a subtle yet powerful symbol of the larger societal shifts occurring during World War I, particularly in relation to the changing roles and expectations of women.

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